Friday, 8 September 2017

Lugano Friday 8 September 2017

We slept like babies last night.  Had breakfast then set off to explore Lugano.  We were coming here 6 years ago but train scheduling issues meant we had to cancel it.  We decided we needed to come here, we were not disappointed, it is on Lake Lugano,  it is indeed a beautiful city there are only 64,000 live in the city itself and 145,000 altogether in the greater metropolitan area which is in the mountains surrounding and all along the lake.  The buildings are too gorgeous, obviously caters for a lot of visitors in the season, all of the designer shops, the most beautiful churches two of them built in 1515 Sam said those Catholics were in competition.  One of them had a nunnery as well and WOW what a place, all absolutely outstanding.  We walked all through the town along the lake, this fellow asked if we would like a pic taken together he said I recognised the accent he was an Aussie as well.  I really will keep this short we have done our homework for tomorrow heading to Ventimiglia, we are going there because we were stranded there (tipped out of the train literally) last time and we had to find somewhere to stay etc. we had such a lovely day that day we decided to pop it in on our way to Collioure on the French South Coast. Lugano is a place not to be missed and might I add so is the journey.  Sabine and Sam













Thursday 7 September 2017

We let ourselves have a little rest in this morning as we were going to have a very big day getting to Lugano.  We decided not to have breakfast does not go well for Sabine whilst travelling such a long distance.  Hallstatt was just magical really Sabine had heard of it briefly one day while driving so jotted it down on her drycleaning docket. When we were planning this journey we had a list of places we had heard of and decided to pop them in if we could.  It was extremely out of the way, we had also been told about Bolzano by our friend Joe so we worked from there. Two places we knew nothing about were outstandingly beautiful and the journeys to get there were unbelievable. 


We caught the ferry across the lake at 9.15 and our train from Hallstatt was 9.25.  This journey was lovely arriving in Stainach-Irdning at 10.35. Our train to Zurich was 11.40 so had a little wait, the cafĂ© was not open but the lass made us a coffee and we had that with a Snickers very healthy indeed.  None of the trains in Austria are booked which you know is kind of good the booked ones are exhausting really one would think it would be the other way round but no.  Lovely train also had the entire compartment to ourselves for four hours until Innsbruck then a couple joined us for 15 mins then we had it to ourselves for the next four hours.  This was a long journey but the scenery was breathtaking 8hrs of postcard scenery. The rivers are without a doubt too beautiful, I had said to Sam this blog will be short I am just going to say there are no words, he said funny you and no words very funny indeed.  We pulled into Zurich at 7.20 and our Zurich to Lugano train was 7.32.  They announce on the trains which platform you will put into and then a list of whatever trains and which platform they will go from, we had googled that but of course there are always last minute changes which there was in this case, we came in at platform 10 and the next one was platform 8, great station lifts and escalators so we had the changeover done in 7 mins.  This was another gorgeous train pretty much had this to ourselves until Lugano where it terminated.  We pulled in at 9.40 a ramp out and this was on the same level as the funicular which takes one down to the town.  We had bought something to eat on the way to the funicular got onboard and with all Sam’s good planning we hopped out of the funicular and our hotel was 25 steps away, we booked in completely exhausted.  This morning Sam said we did not lock the door we did not even close the door it was still ajar, no wonder we were done.   Sabine and Sam

Wednesday, 6 September 2017

Hallstatt 6 September 2017

We woke at 6.00am to the sound of church bells immediately next door which seemed to last for several minutes, not sure why they were ringing.  There was a large funeral in town later that day so that may have been the connection.
We were in no hurry to rise and shine, and the weather was a bit overcast and rainy.
The view from our hotel was still magical but we were very glad we had seen it in the sun yesterday.  The tops of the adjacent mountains were covered in cloud.
After a leisurely breakfast overlooking the lake we ventured out with our umbrellas and meandered through town. Before long the rain had stopped and the cloud began to clear and blue skies appeared.
 We then decided that the time was right to take the funicular up the mountain behind the town, and a short time later we were in the funicular car heading up the mountain.  At the top there is a stunning viewing platform which looks straight down on to the town and across the valley to other more distant villages.
Sabine stayed and admired the view while Sam headed off the visit the salt mine, he got there just in time for a guided tour.
The mine is the oldest salt mine in the world, it has been operating for 7000 years, and is still producing salt to this day.  We learnt how the salt deposits were formed millions of years ago by continual drying out of salt lakes until they were several hundred metres thick, and then with geological events such as volcanic activity they were covered with rock and before long were deep under the surface.
Original mining techniques were by using simple tools such as deer antlers as picks, eventually evolving to bronze implements during the bronze age.  Salt was literally chipped from the rock face.  In recent years human remains have been found within the mine presumably from accidents over the years and the bodies and clothing have been preserved by the salt. The oldest wooden staircase in Europe has been discovered in the mine.
Modern salt extraction methods are by dissolving the salt in situ and pumping it out to a plant 40 km away where the brine is heated to evaporate off the water.
As part of the tour we slid down two miners slides to get to lower levels of the mine, on the second slide which was 64 metres long Sam was measured as travelling at over 31 km/hr, it was such fun.
The whole tour was fabulous and lasted 90 minutes, by the time we got back the sun had gone and it was raining, but not too heavily.
A quick stroll back to the hotel for a bit of a rest.
Shortly after that we heard the sounds of church bells and a brass band so we looked out our balcony and could see a large funeral procession passing along the streets, with the band leading followed by the altar servers, the priest, the banner holders, the cross holder, the coffin on a special trolley, and the mourners.  It was a good hour and a half later that the procession finished in the town plaza and the coffin was placed in the hearse and driven away as the band continued to play and the church bells continued ringing.  Everyone then dispersed, it must have been a person of great importance.
Later we went out for a bite to eat, but it started to rain again so we did not go far.
In the morning we are back on the ferry again for another big day on the trains to get to Lugano in Switzerland. Sabine and Sam









Tuesday, 5 September 2017

Hallstatt 5 September 2017

I know I say this every day but it is what we do, up early brekky and out the hotel by 7.30 for our 8.01am train from Bolzano to Brenner (the Brenner Pass) border of Italy/Austria, we arrived at 9.22am for our train to Innsbruck.  Our conductor was a lovely girl when we were alighting at Brenner she told us our next train was the same platform as we only had 11minutes.  There were lots of us on this trip. These were all Regional trains today but all lovely on time, delightful staff, very impressed.  The scenery on these two journeys was outstanding we were blown away by the absolute beauty of it all.  Into Innsbruck at 10.13am we had one hour this time so a trip to the loo a coffee and onto the platform to catch at 11.14 Innsbruck to Attnang-Puchheim this was Railjet this time (not booked) what a beautiful train they do know how to do this.  More astounding scenery no dropping off to sleep on these journeys. There is a screen on board letting you know what platform you will come into and a list of  connecting trains and platforms so you just go straight to it, only 11 minutes again, great stations, lifts, escalators etc. really makes the difference between it being a day and a great day.  Our next train to Hallstatt was only 75 mins then a connecting ferry over to Hallstatt a darling little Austrian village nestled on the side of a mountain, only 800 permanent residents.  We booked into our hotel did a walk thru the town very lovely, tomorrow an easier day we will do the cable car and Sam will do the salt mine which has been here for 7,000 years. 
We heard about Hallstatt one day I wrote it on the dry cleaning docket and Sam put it into our itinerary really not knowing much other than it was beautiful.  It must also be on the radar for all Asian travel agents because we are one of the few Anglo Saxon visitors here. There was a lovely chap sitting across from us on our last train he could not get over the scenery or the rivers, I said I just love the rivers he was in delight what a lovely thing to see. 

I do know I sound painful saying how beautiful these places are but they really are there are so many tragic things in this world to see such beauty is a delight.  We are really tired tonight so a good sleep is in order.  Sabine and Sam 







Bolzano Monday 4 September 2017

We had yet another early start today, breakfast at 7.00am left the hotel at 8.30 am to walk to the station just very close by, a good station with an escalator, to catch our Regional train at 9.04 from Verona to Bolzano.  What a beautiful journey through the mountains and delightful little villages, we had no idea what Bolzano would be like but the journey there was beautiful.  We were in for a lovely surprise Bolzano was a jewel nestled in the mountains, beautiful buildings, storybook piazzas and streets, gorgeous shops in lovely laneways.  We headed towards the river over a bridge to be blown away by the scenery above us, green dotted with beautiful homes and vines snowcapped mountains and the rivers all flowing into one another a milky green obviously coming from the snow.  


We had left our luggage at the hotel as we arrived at 10.30 came back at 1.00 booked in then went along the street to where the cable car goes up into the mountains, it was closed from 2.00 until five so we did more of the town and went back at five, well this was worth the wait, I have not ever seen anything so astonishingly beautiful, you know all holidays have standout days this was our standout day, I text Joe our friend from Yarra Glen to let him know what a magnificent place he sent us to, he has not been there himself.  I have lots of pics to add to this, mind you nothing could capture the beauty.  We came back from our cable car trip headed to the laundry to do our washing then back to the hotel to do our homework for the next day, lots of train journeys for the next day so one has to be very precise with all that.  I repacked and so to bed exhausted.  Sabine and Sam









Sunday, 3 September 2017

Verona 2nd and 3rd September 2017


We left the Hotel Italia, Siena this morning to catch our Regional train 9.18 to Florence arriving at 10.50. We then caught our booked train in Florence at 11.30 arriving at 12.07 in Bologna then our booked train at 12.45 to Verona arriving at 1.37. In Siena there are a total of 9 elevators from the town down to the station. In Bologna the station is like a multi level city I think we caught 4 elevators down to our station to go to Verona, which is also a huge station but not so many levels.  There had just been a major thunderstorm before we arrived so we were indeed fortunate as we were able to get to our hotel, book in, gather ourselves together before we headed into town about a 20 min walk. 

There is still most of the wall which surrounds the old town.  We continued on surrounded by the beauty of the architecture and the piazzas. There is an amphitheatre built by the Romans in the 1st century, it is just like the Coliseum in Rome but much more complete and in amazing condition. There was a concert there tonight featuring Renato Zero an Italian singer songwriter born 1950.  The buildings are very beautiful. It was busy as well but not nearly as hot as it has been the last couple of weeks which was a great relief. 

We made our way down to Ponte Pietra built in the 1st century by the Romans and it is stunning, there were three brides having their photos and I could certainly see why.  This bridge boasts a long and troubled history. Over the centuries it has suffered numerous collapses followed by reconstructions and restorations, the last of which in 1957 to 1959 was due to the destruction of the bridge by German soldiers during this hasty retreat. The blocks and bricks thrown into the river by the explosion were recovered sorted and numbered for use in the reconstruction. It is the only Roman bridge left in the city.  The white marble constitutes the original parts while the red bricks represents the parts restored during the Scaliger period.

We also visited another stunning bridge called the Castelvecchio Bridge or Scaliger Bridge.  A spectacular Scaliger manor which was comissioned in 1354 by Cangrande Il della Scala on existing fortifications.  The bridge was to grant him a safe way of escape from the adjacent castle in the event of a rebellion of the population against his tyrannic rule.    The segmental arch bridge featured the world’s largest span at the time of its construction.  This was totally destroyed by the retreating German army on April 24, 1945.  A faithful reconstruction began in 1949 and was completed in 1951.  It is visited every day by an abundance of people.   

 There are many beautiful churches.  Duomo Cathedrale I S. Maria Matricolare was built between 1196 (ground breaking) and completed in 1348, but consecrated in 1215. There really are no words to describe these beautiful places, that they keep them so beautifully maintained is a feat in itself, keeping these beautiful places for the future must come at great financial and emotional cost.

Today Sunday we took a different direction and ended up in a market in the Piazza san Zeno. We also visited the Basilica di San Zeno. This church is the symbol of the city and dedicated to its patron saint San Zeno.  His body is preserved in an urn in the apse.  You can actually see it in the crypt.  We both walked into this church there was a wedding in progress but we instantly knew this was a very special place more stunning there was just something I cannot explain I thought it was just me but Sam said this place is my favourite by far. 

According to tradition the church an abbey first rose in the 8th century.  The current Romanesque structures are mainly due to the restructuring that took place following the earthquake of 1117.

We also visited Giulietta’s balcony (Romeo and Juliet). The little courtyard was packed.  People write letters to her asking for guidance on love.  There are a band of people who actually answer all of this mail it takes time but it gets done.  Letters are not only written but little notes on the walls, thousands upon thousands of them.  For a person who did not exist she has fans from all over the world and the mail is astounding. 

After doing as much as we could today, Sunday, we sat in the Piazza san Zeno had a beer each just enjoying the moment really what a place to be.  We continued on had something to eat early in the afternoon and came back to our hotel exhausted. 


Verona is a very special place we both loved it.  We head to Bolzano tomorrow really only put it in as Joe our friend who was the  newsagent in Yarra Glen, his dad was part of the building team who built the tunnel.  I texted Joe today while we were having our beer to let him know he said he loves Verona and had been there four times. He has not been to Bolzano so I will text him tomorrow.  When I realised we would be in Bolzano I thought I would go and see the Iceman at the Archaeological Museum, he was found in 1991 discovered accidently by hikers and has been displayed in Bolzano since 1998.  He was in the ice for 5,300 years, they have done carbon dating tests etc and have discovered he was murdered and preserved naturally in the ice on the glacier.  I have always wanted to see him but alas tomorrow when we are there the Museum is closed for the day, I did try and call them today but to no avail perhaps I will have to come back but not on a Monday.  Sabine and Sam       

Juliet's balcony



Siena 1st September 2017

We had a later start today our train was a Regional one to Florence arriving at 11.57 with a very quick dash to our 12.10 to Siena arriving at 1.40.  We had intended to catch the lift and mini metro down to the station in Perugia but it was very wet so caught a cab downtown.  When we arrived at Siena we then had 9 escalators to get up to the town itself,  Sam had done all of his research so all good we then walked to our hotel which is the Hotel Italia (which featured in a 1950s film).   We booked in and headed out as we only had half the day, certainly a place to see, again a walled town founded by the Romans in the 1st century, just like going back in time, beautiful churches, lots of the wall in very good condition.  We just walked taking in everything before us, the Piazza del Campo which is famous and always photographed, is regarded as one of Europe’s greatest Medieval Squares.  The twice a year horse race Palio di Siena is held around the edges of the piazza.  Sam said he was enthralled by Siena as I think anyone would be.  We made our way back to our hotel stopping at a very delightful place for dinner, it was obviously the “in” place I am sure every Italian in Siena came in.  Just gorgeous.  We wandered home completely spent.  We have to be ready for a big day tomorrow.  Sabine and Sam