We slept like babies last
night. Had breakfast then set off to
explore Lugano. We were coming here 6
years ago but train scheduling issues meant we had to cancel it. We decided we needed to come here, we were
not disappointed, it is on Lake Lugano,
it is indeed a beautiful city there are only 64,000 live in the city
itself and 145,000 altogether in the greater metropolitan area which is in the
mountains surrounding and all along the lake.
The buildings are too gorgeous, obviously caters for a lot of visitors
in the season, all of the designer shops, the most beautiful churches two of
them built in 1515 Sam said those Catholics were in competition. One of them had a nunnery as well and WOW what
a place, all absolutely outstanding. We
walked all through the town along the lake, this fellow asked if we would like
a pic taken together he said I recognised the accent he was an Aussie as
well. I really will keep this short we
have done our homework for tomorrow heading to Ventimiglia, we are going there
because we were stranded there (tipped out of the train literally) last time
and we had to find somewhere to stay etc. we had such a lovely day that day we
decided to pop it in on our way to Collioure on the French South Coast. Lugano is
a place not to be missed and might I add so is the journey. Sabine and Sam
Friday, 8 September 2017
Thursday 7 September 2017
We let ourselves have a little
rest in this morning as we were going to have a very big day getting to
Lugano. We decided not to have breakfast
does not go well for Sabine whilst travelling such a long distance. Hallstatt was just magical really Sabine had
heard of it briefly one day while driving so jotted it down on her drycleaning
docket. When we were planning this journey we had a list of places we had heard
of and decided to pop them in if we could.
It was extremely out of the way, we had also been told about Bolzano by our friend Joe
so we worked from there. Two places we knew nothing about were outstandingly
beautiful and the journeys to get there were unbelievable.
We caught the ferry across the
lake at 9.15 and our train from Hallstatt was 9.25. This journey was lovely arriving in
Stainach-Irdning at 10.35. Our train to Zurich
was 11.40 so had a little wait, the café was not open but the lass made us a
coffee and we had that with a Snickers very healthy indeed. None of the trains in Austria are
booked which you know is kind of good the booked ones are exhausting really one
would think it would be the other way round but no. Lovely train also had the entire compartment
to ourselves for four hours until Innsbruck
then a couple joined us for 15 mins then we had it to ourselves for the next
four hours. This was a long journey but
the scenery was breathtaking 8hrs of postcard scenery. The rivers are without a
doubt too beautiful, I had said to Sam this blog will be short I am just going
to say there are no words, he said funny you and no words very funny
indeed. We pulled into Zurich
at 7.20 and our Zurich
to Lugano train was 7.32. They announce
on the trains which platform you will put into and then a list of whatever
trains and which platform they will go from, we had googled that but of course
there are always last minute changes which there was in this case, we came in
at platform 10 and the next one was platform 8, great station lifts and
escalators so we had the changeover done in 7 mins. This was another gorgeous train pretty much
had this to ourselves until Lugano where it terminated. We pulled in at 9.40 a ramp out and this was
on the same level as the funicular which takes one down to the town. We had bought something to eat on the way to
the funicular got onboard and with all Sam’s good planning we hopped out of the
funicular and our hotel was 25 steps away, we booked in completely
exhausted. This morning Sam said we did
not lock the door we did not even close the door it was still ajar, no wonder
we were done. Sabine and Sam
Wednesday, 6 September 2017
Hallstatt 6 September 2017
We woke at
6.00am to the sound of church bells immediately next door which seemed to last
for several minutes, not sure why they were ringing. There was a large funeral in town later that
day so that may have been the connection.
We were in no
hurry to rise and shine, and the weather was a bit overcast and rainy.
The view from
our hotel was still magical but we were very glad we had seen it in the sun
yesterday. The tops of the adjacent
mountains were covered in cloud.
After a
leisurely breakfast overlooking the lake we ventured out with our umbrellas and
meandered through town. Before long the rain had stopped and the cloud began to
clear and blue skies appeared.
Sabine stayed
and admired the view while Sam headed off the visit the salt mine, he got there
just in time for a guided tour.
The mine is the
oldest salt mine in the world, it has been operating for 7000 years, and is
still producing salt to this day. We
learnt how the salt deposits were formed millions of years ago by continual
drying out of salt lakes until they were several hundred metres thick, and then
with geological events such as volcanic activity they were covered with rock
and before long were deep under the surface.
Original mining
techniques were by using simple tools such as deer antlers as picks, eventually
evolving to bronze implements during the bronze age. Salt was literally chipped from the rock
face. In recent years human remains have
been found within the mine presumably from accidents over the years and the
bodies and clothing have been preserved by the salt. The oldest wooden
staircase in Europe has been discovered in the
mine.
Modern salt
extraction methods are by dissolving the salt in situ and pumping it out to a
plant 40 km away where the brine is heated to evaporate off the water.
As part of the
tour we slid down two miners slides to get to lower levels of the mine, on the
second slide which was 64 metres long Sam was measured as travelling at over 31
km/hr, it was such fun.
The whole tour
was fabulous and lasted 90 minutes, by the time we got back the sun had gone
and it was raining, but not too heavily.
A quick stroll
back to the hotel for a bit of a rest.
Shortly after
that we heard the sounds of church bells and a brass band so we looked out our
balcony and could see a large funeral procession passing along the streets,
with the band leading followed by the altar servers, the priest, the banner
holders, the cross holder, the coffin on a special trolley, and the
mourners. It was a good hour and a half
later that the procession finished in the town plaza and the coffin was placed
in the hearse and driven away as the band continued to play and the church
bells continued ringing. Everyone then
dispersed, it must have been a person of great importance.
Later we went
out for a bite to eat, but it started to rain again so we did not go far.
In the morning
we are back on the ferry again for another big day on the trains to get to
Lugano in Switzerland .
Sabine and Sam
Tuesday, 5 September 2017
Hallstatt 5 September 2017
I know I say
this every day but it is what we do, up early brekky and out the hotel by 7.30
for our 8.01am train from Bolzano to Brenner
(the Brenner Pass) border of Italy/Austria, we arrived at 9.22am for our train
to Innsbruck . Our conductor was a lovely girl when we were
alighting at Brenner she told us our next train was the same platform as we
only had 11minutes. There were lots of
us on this trip. These were all Regional trains today but all lovely on time,
delightful staff, very impressed. The
scenery on these two journeys was outstanding we were blown away by the
absolute beauty of it all. Into
Innsbruck at 10.13am we had one hour this time so a trip to the loo a coffee
and onto the platform to catch at 11.14 Innsbruck to Attnang-Puchheim this was
Railjet this time (not booked) what a beautiful train they do know how to do
this. More astounding scenery no
dropping off to sleep on these journeys. There is a screen on board letting you
know what platform you will come into and a list of connecting trains and platforms so you just
go straight to it, only 11 minutes again, great stations, lifts, escalators
etc. really makes the difference between it being a day and a great day. Our next train to Hallstatt was only 75 mins
then a connecting ferry over to Hallstatt a darling little Austrian village
nestled on the side of a mountain, only 800 permanent residents. We booked into our hotel did a walk thru the
town very lovely, tomorrow an easier day we will do the cable car and Sam will
do the salt mine which has been here for 7,000 years.
We heard about
Hallstatt one day I wrote it on the dry cleaning docket and Sam put it into our
itinerary really not knowing much other than it was beautiful. It must also be on the radar for all Asian
travel agents because we are one of the few Anglo Saxon visitors here. There
was a lovely chap sitting across from us on our last train he could not get
over the scenery or the rivers, I said I just love the rivers he was in delight
what a lovely thing to see.
Bolzano Monday 4 September 2017
We had yet another early start
today, breakfast at 7.00am left the hotel at 8.30 am to walk to the station
just very close by, a good station with an escalator, to catch our Regional
train at 9.04 from Verona to Bolzano .
What a beautiful journey through the mountains and delightful little
villages, we had no idea what Bolzano
would be like but the journey there was beautiful. We were in for a lovely surprise Bolzano was a jewel
nestled in the mountains, beautiful buildings, storybook piazzas and streets, gorgeous
shops in lovely laneways. We headed
towards the river over a bridge to be blown away by the scenery above us, green
dotted with beautiful homes and vines snowcapped mountains and the rivers all
flowing into one another a milky green obviously coming from the snow.
We had left our luggage at the
hotel as we arrived at 10.30 came back at 1.00 booked in then went along the
street to where the cable car goes up into the mountains, it was closed from
2.00 until five so we did more of the town and went back at five, well this was
worth the wait, I have not ever seen anything so astonishingly beautiful, you
know all holidays have standout days this was our standout day, I text Joe our
friend from Yarra Glen to let him know what a magnificent place he sent us to,
he has not been there himself. I have
lots of pics to add to this, mind you nothing could capture the beauty. We came back from our cable car trip headed
to the laundry to do our washing then back to the hotel to do our homework for
the next day, lots of train journeys for the next day so one has to be very
precise with all that. I repacked and so
to bed exhausted. Sabine and Sam
Sunday, 3 September 2017
Verona 2nd and 3rd September 2017
We left the Hotel Italia, Siena this morning to catch our Regional train 9.18 to Florence arriving at
10.50. We then caught our booked train in Florence
at 11.30 arriving at 12.07 in Bologna then our
booked train at 12.45 to Verona
arriving at 1.37. In Siena
there are a total of 9 elevators from the town down to the station. In Bologna the station is like a multi level city I think we
caught 4 elevators down to our station to go to Verona , which is also a huge station but not
so many levels. There had just been a
major thunderstorm before we arrived so we were indeed fortunate as we were
able to get to our hotel, book in, gather ourselves together before we headed
into town about a 20 min walk.
There is still most of the wall which surrounds the old
town. We continued on surrounded by the
beauty of the architecture and the piazzas. There is an amphitheatre built by
the Romans in the 1st century, it is just like the Coliseum in Rome but much more
complete and in amazing condition. There was a concert there tonight featuring
Renato Zero an Italian singer songwriter born 1950. The buildings are very beautiful. It was busy
as well but not nearly as hot as it has been the last couple of weeks which was
a great relief.
We made our way down to Ponte
Pietra built in the 1st century by the Romans and it is stunning,
there were three brides having their photos and I could certainly see why. This bridge boasts a long and troubled
history. Over the centuries it has suffered numerous collapses followed by
reconstructions and restorations, the last of which in 1957 to 1959 was due to
the destruction of the bridge by German soldiers during this hasty retreat. The
blocks and bricks thrown into the river by the explosion were recovered sorted
and numbered for use in the reconstruction. It is the only Roman bridge left in
the city. The white marble constitutes
the original parts while the red bricks represents the parts restored during
the Scaliger period.
We also visited another stunning
bridge called the Castelvecchio Bridge or Scaliger
Bridge . A spectacular Scaliger manor which was
comissioned in 1354 by Cangrande Il della Scala on existing
fortifications. The bridge was to grant
him a safe way of escape from the adjacent castle in the event of a rebellion
of the population against his tyrannic rule.
The segmental arch bridge featured the world’s
largest span at the time of its construction.
This was totally destroyed by the retreating German army on April 24,
1945. A faithful reconstruction began in
1949 and was completed in 1951. It is
visited every day by an abundance of people.
There are many beautiful churches. Duomo Cathedrale I S. Maria Matricolare was
built between 1196 (ground breaking) and completed in 1348, but consecrated in
1215. There really are no words to describe these beautiful places, that they
keep them so beautifully maintained is a feat in itself, keeping these
beautiful places for the future must come at great financial and emotional
cost.
Today Sunday we took a different
direction and ended up in a market in the Piazza san Zeno. We also visited the
Basilica di San Zeno. This church is the symbol of the city and dedicated to its
patron saint San Zeno. His body is
preserved in an urn in the apse. You can
actually see it in the crypt. We both
walked into this church there was a wedding in progress but we instantly knew
this was a very special place more stunning there was just something I cannot
explain I thought it was just me but Sam said this place is my favourite by
far.
According to tradition the church
an abbey first rose in the 8th century. The current Romanesque structures are mainly
due to the restructuring that took place following the earthquake of 1117.
We also visited Giulietta’s
balcony (Romeo and Juliet). The little courtyard was packed. People write letters to her asking for
guidance on love. There are a band of
people who actually answer all of this mail it takes time but it gets
done. Letters are not only written but
little notes on the walls, thousands upon thousands of them. For a person who did not exist she has fans
from all over the world and the mail is astounding.
After doing as much as we could
today, Sunday, we sat in the Piazza san Zeno had a beer each just enjoying the
moment really what a place to be. We
continued on had something to eat early in the afternoon and came back to our
hotel exhausted.
![]() |
| Juliet's balcony |
Siena 1st September 2017
We had a later start today our
train was a Regional one to Florence arriving at
11.57 with a very quick dash to our 12.10 to Siena arriving at 1.40. We had intended to catch the lift and mini
metro down to the station in Perugia
but it was very wet so caught a cab downtown.
When we arrived at Siena we then had 9 escalators to get up to the town
itself, Sam had done all of his research
so all good we then walked to our hotel which is the Hotel Italia (which
featured in a 1950s film). We booked in
and headed out as we only had half the day, certainly a place to see, again a
walled town founded by the Romans in the 1st century, just like
going back in time, beautiful churches, lots of the wall in very good
condition. We just walked taking in
everything before us, the Piazza del Campo which is famous and always
photographed, is regarded as one of Europe ’s
greatest Medieval Squares. The twice a
year horse race Palio di Siena is held around the edges of the piazza. Sam said he was enthralled by Siena as I think anyone
would be. We made our way back to our
hotel stopping at a very delightful place for dinner, it was obviously the “in”
place I am sure every Italian in Siena
came in. Just gorgeous. We wandered home completely spent. We have to be ready for a big day
tomorrow. Sabine and Sam
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