Camino de Santiago Saturday 16 September to Saturday 23 September 2017

DAY 1

We were taken for a warm up walk through a small village called Castrillo de los Polvazares.  We were collected and then driven further to a village called Foncebadon where were had a coffee, taught what is acceptable when using their toilets they do not charge for this but the expectation is to buy a coffee I just did a donation because too much coffee I could not do.  We learned how to use our poles, we were given one each I have to say my pole enabled me to do this journey.  We then walked to the Iron Cross where everyone leaves a stone with a hope, a thank you whatever one wishes, mine was for all the people I love and for the ones I do not know whose lives are a struggle.  We then continued on this being our most difficult day under foot. On this part of the Camino we crossed the highest point in the entire Camino at 1,517 metres above sea level (200 metres higher than Ben Nevis, the UKs highest mountain). We reached El Acebo where we had lunch.  That was 11ks. Huge lunch and lots of wine (we are in Spain after all).  I did not walk that afternoon went with young Paul assisted with the luggage and awaited Gordy and Ash to walk the afternoon.  The afternoon had very steep descents and very challenging under foot. We ended up in Molinasea.   We went into the village had a light dinner and made ready for the next day. 

DAY 2

Breakfast in the hotel, 9.00am briefing, we then did a 40 min drive to La Faba. We had a coffee stop and began our walk, it was lovely weather for walking a little damp but good.  The first five kms was what Paul the elder called steepish undulations, very funny, it was all up hill 600metres, it was a steady climb, steep in places, but we were rewarded by spectacular views across verdant valleys. We crossed the border into Galicia which is very important for we Pilgrims.  Ash and I were the resident photographers and took probably every person who was on their own, we had to wait for a break in the stream of people to get away, I am hoping Ash has a pic of us, funny but we met lots of lovely people and this is what it is all about.  We continued on and came to a village called O’Cebreiro where there is a fine 9^th C Church, this was very lovely indeed, the Pauls met us there and sent us on our way towards our lunch date at a village called Hospital (the proper name is Hospital de la Condensa).  This walk was particularly stunning 11ks then lunch anor huge lunch wine etc loo stop.  We were driven to a spot where we started the afternoon walk of 5ks downhill through a combination of chestnut woods, small fields, meadows all along a beautiful country lane.  We arrived in Triacastela, Ash and I the last in of course, taking photos of lots of lone Pilgrims.  We sat at a gorgeous village bar and had a well deserved drink.  We then had a short drive to our overnight stopover at Sarria.  We had a bit of a rest and went out, not far for a light bite to eat, We ran into our couple from Derbyshire had drinks and something to eat with them and then headed back to the hotel.  Gorgeous day in every way.    

DAY 3

Breakfast in the hotel, 9.00am briefing, this was a 16/17 kms walk, Sam Ash and I took the softer option today and started at a village called Barbadelo which was a 12ks walk to our lunch date at Ferrerios, This was also a beautiful walk, we were indeed fortunate throughout the week blessed with perfect walking conditions, not hot just ideal.  Beautiful country lanes green fields beautiful livestock.  We all met up for our huge lunch and many wines in a bar in their upstairs private room.  The 2 Pauls have excelled again in all of their choices of venue lunch etc.  After lunch the long walkers did 9ks and Sam Ash and I did 6ks.  This was also a beautiful walk ending up crossing a very long bridge over the reservoir before climbing to the village of Portomarin.  We having taken the soft option arrived at the bar first. The two Pauls arriving not long after, we had a few beers and awaited the rest of our gang.  As always Janet and Lynn arrived next and then everyone else, after a relax we are taken to our accommodation which was a lovely converted farmhouse deep in the woods called Casa Roan in Lodoso.  The luggage to our rooms very lovely house a little rest and then the most beautiful dinner cooked for us by the chef for the house.  We had yet another delightful evening with lots of laughter etc.  I do think it is the laughter really, everyone was beginning to look much less tired, it is the endorphins.  We finally get to bed being prepared for another day.

DAY 4

We start the day with breakfast at the farmhouse then our briefing from Paul the elder, we drive to the start of our walk.  The extreme walkers did 16ks that day and Sam Ash and I did about 11ks.  This was indeed a beautiful walk too, through woods lanes perfect walking weather and we arrived first, of course we did we had taken the shorter option, at Casa de los Somoza.  We had quite a few drinks in the sunshine whilst awaiting the rest of our gang arriving in dribs and drabs, we then are taken to our restaurant for lunch this was Melide. This was a very lovely lunch I think everyone loved today.  Our afternoon walk took us to Castaneda where we were all collected and taken to our accommodation which was jawdroppingly beautiful.  It was an old mansion house, Pazo de Sedor, in Sedor on many many acres with a pool and the views from our rooms were just to die for, again we all would have liked to stay longer.  We get a few little minutes to relax get ready for dinner, this was in a long room and again prepared for us by the house chef, absolutely delicious, much alcohol, I am sure this made us numb enough to keep walking.  We were very noisy that evening, all knew one another a little better such delightful company.  Much fun was had before we retired to prepare for another day. 

DAY 5

Breakfast and our briefing by Paul the elder and then into our vehicles and dropped at our spots to start.  This was 17ks Sam Ash and I walked 12ks.  We started in a town called Arzua.  It was going to be quite wet that day young Paul gave me a poncho which I was very grateful for, Ash and Sam said I looked like a true Pilgrim, it really started to pour so we sheltered under someone’s garage, when it improved we set off, I found this the most difficult day, beautiful scenery etc by the time we arrived at lunch my old broken foot injury was giving me grief, a couple of café con leches with Baileys dulled it all.  We have another beautiful lunch etc lots of laughter and then the afternoon walk I actually went to our accommodation in the vehicle. This was yet another converted farmhouse delightful indeed.  Sam and Ash were troupers and walked the afternoon as well.  There was no dinner that evening we had all been to the supermarket to buy some goodies to share, Sam and Ash had bought Pringles and chocolate.  We just all had a casual evening together with our goodies in the gathering room of the farmhouse.  We get to bed to be prepared for our last day which is a short walk into Santiago about 7ks. 

DAY 6

Breakfast pack the vehicles get dropped off, we need to step on it today as the Pilgrims’ Mass at the Cathedral is 12.00.  We all make it in time, the Cathedral being stunning Sam and Ash did not stay for Mass but I did as did everyone else it was very special indeed.  We did not all sit together but caught up with one another at some point in the Cathedral or outside very special indeed. 

There really are no words to explain doing this walk or the connection to the people you have only met a week prior, I do think everyone feels the same. 

We sit in a bar with a few of our friends we have caught up with go to a bar enjoy time together and then go and find our accommodation.  We are not prepared for such a gorgeous place, it is a working Monastery as well as a hotel. This is called Monumento San Francisco.  Santiago is a beautiful place well worth a much longer stay.  We all did our own thing in the afternoon before an amazing Farewell Dinner in the most beautiful hall of the Monastery.  The 2 Pauls attended this dinner as well.  There would not have been one of us who did not feel this was quite an amazing week in our lives, one crosses paths with whom one is meant to cross paths I always believe I do not know why.  We all enjoyed the company of each other immensely.  I think this would be a life changing experience for us all.  We said our goodbyes Friday evening.  Some of us caught up at breakfast next morning, four of our group were going to Finisterre for the day as they were staying on, this is where one traditionally throws a piece of their clothing into the sea after having walked the Camino. 

We said our goodbyes again young Paul drove Sam Ash and I to the station and a couple to the airport.  We were heading to Seville then onto Benalmadena on the Sunday. 

I do not think any of us had any idea or any expectation of what this would be but for me it was quite amazing, Sam Ash and I had such an unbelievable experience enjoyed one anothers company laughed a lot and said we would never forget it.  We also met some extraordinary people who were absolutely delightful.  An experience not to be missed.  

Camino de Santiago overview

We met the 2 Pauls father and son, they are the company Walks In Spain, they both appear delightful and both of them very easy on the eye so if the walk is hard going we always have them to look forward to at the end of each day.

We met our fellow walkers at our welcome dinner. They had all arrived in Astorga on the Saturday. 

 There are fourteen of us altogether. A couple from Derbyshire they have done the Camino seven years ago with the 2 Pauls and they have done many walks with them in other areas since both lovely as well.  There were two fellows who were room mates whilst studying law in the States 45 years ago, one from the States and the other chap from Edinburgh who is a judge in the Scottish Supreme Court.  They were both delightful.  There were two girls (ladies really) from States sisters in law one of them a Professor and the other in education, delightful also. There were two other sisters in law from Canada also in education and they were the leaders of the pack, fast walkers indeed gorgeous girls as well.  The other couple also from Canada funnily enough from the same small town as the other two girls, but had never met, he was an accountant and she was in web page design very lovely couple as well.  Gordy Ash and I (delightful also).  There was a lady from New South Wales.

We were up early breakfast at 8.00am and ready to leave by 9.00am bags ready, there were two vehicles so seven of us in each vehicle.  Luggage packed and off we go. We are walking what the 2 Pauls say is the best and most picturesque part of the Camino.  We were driven to the beginning of our walk, there is a program they give us the number of kilometres and they we all meet for lunch in a beautiful restaurant along the way at about 2.00pm.  I am adding this in here for background.  The Camino is extremely good financially for the villages on the way.  There are bars where one can stop if one wants maybe a coffee but mostly we just stop for lunch which is quite an extravagant affair considering we are Pilgrims.  Lunch is normally finished by 4.00pm  and then we do our afternoon walk and arrive at our new hotel, the 2 Pauls will have taken our luggage ahead for us.

All of our accommodation beautiful places where we all said we could have stayed for quite a few days or more.  We got to know one another over lunch and crossing along the way, the first evening we just went into the village where we were staying and organised our own dinner.  There were special dinners on the Tuesday Wednesday and the Farewell Dinner on Friday. 

I have to say one could not have faulted the organisation the accommodation or anything during the entire week.  The 2 Pauls were not only easy on the eye their personality efficiency and kindness just shone through.

We were all of the same baby boomer vintage, Ash being way the youngest, she was a trooper got on famously with everyone she was the young person who kept us all centred and our minds on the job.  The couple from Canada they were about 8 or nine years younger than most people.  Ash did say she could not believe how much we could all drink then get up the next morning and walk 25ks for  the day, she said her young friends would not have had a hope of keeping up with us. Nice thing to say.

The 2 Pauls were saying fifteen years ago when they started this business most of the villages along the way many of the buildings had no rooves.  The villages on the way have benefitted from the increased numbers who do this, the way the world turns I guess.  It is a very rural part of the country extremely pretty in lots of parts, beautiful cattle because each one of them has a couple of acres of lush ground on which to graze unlike lots of our cattle 100 of them on ground not so lush.  Beautiful ground which seem underutilized to me but we all have our way I guess.  There are about half a million pilgrims per year, lots of them do the entire distance of around 800ks beginning on the French side of the Pyrenees.  They all need places to stay and there are hostals (their spelling) some better than others I can imagine.  I am sure no one can explain the journey and none of us at the end of what we did (and we did it very comfortably) could explain it either.  If anyone ever thinks I may do this I would not go past Walks in Spain but two things that should be thought about one does need to be fit and do a good all round program prior to leaving and take a smallish case that is paramount for oneself and also as a courtesy to the 2 Pauls.   

Astorga 16 September 2017

We arose reasonably early, had our breakfast then found the Laundromat I got everything started Sam and Ash went and did a little bit of shopping and had a quick look around the town.  Took everything back to the hotel and then we headed out, we walked and saw as much as we could sat in the square and had a few drinks wandered back, I ironed everything ready to repack for our next week.  We went out again I did a tour of the Cathedral dear me I thought all the others were amazing this one was beyond amazing.  We are to meet our fellow walkers this evening at 8.00pm with dinner as well.  We do hope we go well it will be a challenge I am sure. 

While we were out today we saw so many Camino pilgrims I think it will be like Bourke Street.  We set off tomorrow morning.  Let you all know how we go Sam said we may be in intensive care somewhere.  Sabine Sam and Ash xxx

Madrid 15 September 2017

We arose early headed into the city caught the hop on hop off bus route no 1, it was really cold so had to buy ourselves as cardi each. We then did route 2 and had some lunch at a lovely little place and headed back to the hotel.  We had checked out before we went into town and put our luggage into their lock up. We collected our luggage and when it was time we headed over to the station to catch our 5.30 train to Astorga. The scenery in Spain not quite jaw dropping as through Austria and Switzerland. 

We arrived in Astorga at 8.30 not a cab in sight, we had a number to call but he did not understand me.  There was a lovely Spanish lady also needing a cab so she called one he came took her to her hotel and then came back for us, the kindness of strangers.  We booked in our hotel, it was once a Palace, now all restored etc.  It was the residence of the Earl of Tepa, who ordered the construction of this building at the end of the 18^th C, Casa de Tepa has gone through several stages of splendour and decline throughout history, being seriously damaged during the Independence War.  When Napoleon came to Astorga to help French troops in the City’s siege, he stayed at this home after the conquest.  The hotel is called Casa de Tepa.  We were in need of a drink so our lovely chap at the desk suggested a place for us and gave us directions.  We came to the end of the little street and we were not prepared for what we saw.  First there is a building by Gaudi finished in 1915.  It is a fairytale castle, then there is the Cathedral both places floodlit and quite outer worldly.  Ash said I feel like I am in a Disney film, that is exactly how it looked.  We had the most beautiful meal at Serrano Restaurant and then wandered home. This was a day full of surprises, Astorga is indeed a gem. Sabine Sam and Ash  

Madrid 14 September 2017

We headed into Madrid this morning, found somewhere to have brunch, found the square and then pretty much just walked and saw as much as we could, Ash was looking tired so I said lets head back and we can come back tomorrow and do the hop on hop off bus to see what we could not have done on foot.  We went down to the bar in the hotel had a few drinks then some early dinner in readiness for our day Friday.

Madrid 13 September 2017

We took a suburban train to the new Terminal 4 from where we are staying, very good organising on Sam’s part. We were there very quickly it is like a city in itself, very modern and very efficient, we arrived there about 1.00pm and Ash’s flight was not due until 3.10pm so we just took the place in, watched the passing parade had a coffee filled in our time.  Her flight was only 10 mins late landing and she was thru customs by 4.00pm excellent really, she said it was efficient indeed.  I had made a sign with her name on it, she laughed, I needed it.  We made our way back to our hotel she was exhausted so had a good sleep and then we wandered down and had some dinner about 9.30. We then all slept well in readiness for our day in Madrid the next day, lovely to see her lots of laughter.  Sabine Sam and Ash 

Madrid 12 September 2017

One never knows what a day will bring. We awoke this morning I was pretty much packed, showered did the final touches, did not have breakfast, long day travelling today.  We walked from our hotel to the station. It did look quiet but small station. We did have to get our luggage to platform 2 via some stairs anyway all done sitting with anor lass and her two huge dogs she was obviously catching our train too.  This young man comes onto the station he is from the Czech Republic we learn.  He points to the tracks waving no train today I said to him is it a train strike ah yes he understood that, what a lovely boy. It had started the day prior he spent the night in the park because if you do not have a booking in these places the park is the only place for you.  In the meantime anor couple came onto the station we told them as well we had decided to walk back to town and catch a cab to Perpignan, of course we did not know whether it was regional strike or what so took a punt. The did not know what they would do, we said this is what we will do.  We got back to the bridge I sent Sam into a café he came out ten mins later telling me the lovely café owner had called us a cab and it would be ten mins, you know the kindness of strangers.  I went into the café thanked this man he was a delight almost hugged me we get in the cab and then just as we are taking off I see the other couple from the station walking across so got the cabbie to stop wind his window down, saying we need to take them too, meanwhile he does not speak any English, anyway he stops gets their luggage they hop in with us and off we head to Perpignan, peak hour traffic, no idea whether there will be a train or not.  We get there took about half hour it was about 26ks from Collioure we get out the cab this couple were from Seattle and she just put her arms around me said you saved us I said no the young man on the station saved us, I just wanted to make sure you caught your train to Paris if it is running, her husband hugged me as well, we thank the cabbie he almost hugs us too, funny the experiences of travel.  We go in to the station tentatively find our trains on the screen breathe a sigh of relief, I said to this man you need to google David Stratton you are his double but younger, anyway their platform  no came up we said our goodbyes they were off to Paris for five days at the end of their trip. Bit of a stressful morning but we never panic, we were only worried because we were meeting Ash at Madrid airport at 3.15 the next afternoon and had no way to even let her know, she had left by this time, all worked out in the end.  We also met some delightful people in the process.  

Our train was on time 11.17am to Madrid Atocha at 3.50pm. We then took a suburban train to Chamartin where we are staying because of its proximity to heading to the airport then leaving here Friday for Astorga.  We booked in slept for a couple of hours had something to eat and slept until 7.30 this morning (Wednesday).  We have had breakfast just planning a lovely day tomorrow, been tracking Ash’s flight and we will leave shortly to collect her.  It looks like a beautiful day out there.  Take care Sabine and Sam.  I will post my pic of Collioure Station house

Collioure Monday 11 September 2017

Collioure is indeed a gem.  We slept very well last night up reasonably early today to see as much as we could in the time we have.  First of all we took our laundry to the Laundromat we had googled, went for a walk along the waterfront while we waited, what a beautiful place, the town wall is mostly intact. 

This is not only a lovely place but an interesting one as well.  There is a record of the castle at “Castrum Cauocliberi” having been mentioned as early as 673 indicating that the settlement was of strategic and commercial importance.  It was taken by the French 1642 and officially surrendered to France by the 1659 Treaty of Pyrenees. 

In 1793 Collioure was besieged and occupied by Spanish troops marking the last Spanish attempt to take the city.  The blockade was broken a year later by a French General. 

There is a beautiful church Eglise Notre-Dame des-Anges de Collioure  (Our Lady of the Angels) constructed between 1684 and1691.  There are eight chapels with the most beautiful altars, the main altar being probably the most beautiful and ornate I have ever seen and Sam said that is saying something as even he has seen many.  The Chapel of St Vincent has a relic and I have put in a pic of that.  There is also the Chapel of Lourdes. 

We went back to our laundry met a couple from Sandringham funny the people you meet.  The dryer did not work had to bring back my wet washing to our hotel thank heavens I have a balcony (strict instructions in the folder not to hang anything on the balcony) what to do hung some of it on hangers put some on the balcony out of eyesight, anyway it was a good day and it pretty much dried, I have ironed it dry now and packed it away for tomorrow.  One does need to be a girl guide on these journeys. 

We spent the rest of the day seeing as much as we could.  It is a very busy little town, all old baby boomers like ourselves, what would the world do without the baby boomer, I do not think it would turn at all. There would be 100s of kerbside restaurants all full and this is not even official holidaytime.  Every hotel has no vacancy signs, too bad if you came to one of these places without a reservation you would have to sleep in the park. 

We have been out for dinner I am all organised for tomorrow we have a 9.53 local train to Perpignan then a booked train to Madrid arriving at 3.45.  We will then meet Ash at Madrid airport on Wednesday afternoon it will be lovely to see her.  Time for my bed. Sabine and Sam

Collioure Sunday 10 September 2017

Here we are Sunday morning I awoke very early so got started on my day. I went back to bed for a little bit and slept until 6.00am but I was ahead of the game I was already showered etc. Sam had to get organised.  We had our brekky just a small one big day ahead today.  We left the hotel at 8.15am walked to the station lovely morning rain all gone so good start to the day. 

We arrived at the station waited for our platform to go up on the board and made our way to where we needed to be.  Our train started its journey at Ventimiligia today it was a train to Paris Gare De Lyon.  We were the only ones on board our carriage (a booked train today) until we reached Monaco then it took on passengers along the way.  It was a very lovely day today and as the railway line follows the coast it was pretty indeed.  We have used this line before so knew it quite well having alighted at the beach etc. on our last couple of journeys.  There was a lovely dog on board (dogs are permitted on all trains in Europe and the UK and what a good idea) he was funny his owner was having something to eat and she gave him a dentabone type treat he was unimpressed and just dropped it on the floor, Sam and I did laugh when we gave our Chifley his dentabone he would put it under the piano stool we would give him one just to see what he did with it and every time he did the same.  The dogs are so used to travelling they just come on board and sit where they should.  We had left at 9.10am and arrived at Avignon TGV at 12.55pm.  Avignon TGV is a lovely station very State of the Art, it has been added to since we were here six years aso.  We found our platform to go to Avignon Central got on board very space age. Funny they did not check our ticket on the long journey but on this very short one they did. We arrived at Avignon Central most definitely not State of the Art bought something to eat and a coffee and awaited our 3.37pm to Collioure.  Interesting station there is a piano there and whoever wishes can play it, this lovely young man obviously a music student played a Chopin piece just beautiful, anyway this homeless fellow was speaking to this young man and then he sat down and played as well it was beautiful and sad because he was fabulous whatever happened to him I wonder, for him to end up so tragically and he could play beautifully, this lovely young man opened his wallet and gave him some money, humanity hey.  This young man continued to play I did have to go and speak to him he was a delight. It is never the destination is it is always the journey and the people one meets. 

It was time for our platform to go up on the board we hot footed it to the platform as it was a Regional Train, we found a seat stowed our luggage as it was to be a four hour journey to Collioure.  It was the kiddie express all the youngsters all the way along the journey seen off by their parents to uni for the week, Sam and I were the only constants on this journey. We had to hop off at Perpignan and go further up the train to take us to Collioure, which is on the coast about 20 km from the Spanish border.  We had found Collioure in the Good Weekend, they had said it was a pretty seaside town etc. this really was not good enough, after we found our hotel up a hill and we ended up being on the very top floor (he assured us it was the best view and it is) we were the last to arrive for the day, anyway we booked in checked out the pool which is where I intended to spend tomorrow then went down town for dinner, my goodness Good Weekend did not do it justice what a very gorgeous place much to do tomorrow I am afraid.  Poor Sam hoping for a break by the pool. An extremely interesting history and I will embroider on this tomorrow.   We are back in our room I think we will sleep, gracious me anor big day tomorrow but one cannot waste them.  I am very tired now, will post some pics tomorrow.  Sabine and Sam xxx    

Ventimiglia 9 September 2017

Today I am tired the bells are ringing telling me it is 9.00pm.  We have just had dinner down by the beach in Ventimiligia, back at the hotel and I am going to do this before I put my head on the pillow.  I have taken off my dress given it the once over and you know it will do for tomorrow, very long journey tomorrow I am not going to see anyone I will ever see again. 

We left Lugano this morning for the 8.40am train to Milano Centrale. I was very pleased to be going thru Milan Centrale Station because it is absolutely beautiful and and I only saw it quickly on my way to Lake Como about ten days or so ago.  This was a regional train so quite civilized as no bookings required in Switzerland.  Lovely train and gorgeous crossing over the bridge on Lake Lugano into Italy.  This took us an hour and quarter, pretty, but not in the order of the last few days thankfully, it is exhausting trying to take in all that beauty. We arrived in Milano Centrale found a seat amazing really huge amount of people passing thru.  We waited for our platform number to come up because the minute it does a swarm of people go for it, all bookings mind you, we are in Italy now.  Our wagon was no 11 seats 9a and 8a no specific luggage compartment but there are spaces behind the seats, poor Sam this stresses him a bit, I am good at this get our luggage stowed, anor young Chinese couple looking stressed told them where their seat would be and to pop their luggage on top of ours, she was gorgeous said thank you, came and saw me later, it is interesting, we have met lovely young people, but it is funny really, wherever we are I always get asked for directions, anyway mostly I can show them on the map everyone is delightful, says  thank you and off we go. I guess all these things make ones journey. 

We left Milano Central at 11.10am arriving at Verntimiligia at 3.10pm, it was pouring with rain and no shelter on the station and stairs,  anyway we got down had something to eat and a coffee, checked the weather and decided to get a cab to our hotel, he was not too pleased as they do not like to take you if you are close, tough it was wet we ignored his displeasure and he took us, very funny it turned out to be the hotel we stayed at the last time.  We were exhausted had a sleep in between the church bells etc went and had some dinner down by the beach and now in readiness for our big day tomorrow to Collioure in France. I have decided we are intrepid travellers.  Looking forward to seeing Ash on Wednesday in Madrid to start the Camino on next Sunday I think we will sleep for a month when we return.  All the best Sabine and Sam